Why preserve our food
Throughout the ages, men and women have hunted, gathered and grown their food. And they have looked for and perfected ways of preserving the bounty. In this article we look at the history and how we can use simple techniques to preserve the harvest.
The simple answer, of course, is to make foods available to us when they are not in season or to extend the time we have to consume it.
I prefer a more eloquent set of reasons. Imagine the pleasure of retrieving an apple wrapped in dried elderflowers, brushing off the still fragrant flowers to discover the fruit changed to a magical and enchanting pineapple flavour. Consider the subtlety of bi-coloured grapes preserved in vinegar topping your expensive venison roast. How divine!
Why preserve our food? Because there is a world of amazing, wonderful combinations that will make your taste buds soar with ecstasy.
These deeply useful and wonderful techniques will open doors to a big new pantry full of flavours and textures waiting nay begging to be explored.
Have we learned from history?
Edward Hyams wrote in 1952 in his classic ‘Soil & Civilisation’ how the modern misapplication of science has caused humans the world over to “begin working across or against the grain of life”.
Bill Mollison in multiple writings decries our consumptive lifestyles as having led us to the very brink of annihilation. Moreover the first Mollisonian Principle of Permaculture is to work with nature, rather than against it.
Similarly, David Holmgren has further developed these principles into what can be seen as a useful set of Life Principles embodying permaculture and serving it in a manner more easily understood and digested by the masses.
Hyams all those years ago notes how science had become the master rather than servant, displacing the age old wisdom that has maintained the integrity of life.
Such changes are abundantly evident in our modern diets. The business of food science is in complete conflict with the poetry of human nourishment.
Supermarket shelves are filled with products that have been chemically altered by the addition of this or that preservative. There is the canned, frozen, pasteurised and devitalized at every turn. Irradiation of food – the process of exposing food and it’s packaging to ionizing radiation such as gamma rays, X-ray and electron beams began in the late 1960s and has largely flown under the radar (pun intended) ever since.
I personally prefer to dance to the beat of an older drum.
I lived and worked in Spain for a time and found it to be a place that celebrates and encourages the more poetic methods of food preservation, that maintains or enhances the life in their food rather than seeking to destroy or modify. Many of these foods are considered to be gourmet delights these days but in truth, they are ancient and old wisdoms found and practiced out of necessity.
Food preservation can therefore be divided into two categories, the scientific packages on the supermarket shelves and the poetic, natural methods that enhance our enjoyment and interaction.
Let the journey begin
Much of the inspiration for this article comes from my two favourite books. Terre Vivante gardens and farmers and La Cocina Espanole.
Many of the techniques discussed have benefited from the advent of new technology, such as high-performance solar dryers and water sealed lactic fermentation jars but for the most part, these techniques are explained as they are still practiced in the homes of Spanish, French, Portuguese and others.
Is this type of preserving safe?
There is often a cultural or otherwise knowledge gap for usas home gardeners and cooks discovering the joys of preserving the harvest. There is much written about sterilising jars of food in boiling water baths (canning or pressure cooking ) to ensure food safety.
This is an important caveat when working to preserve food items. Absolute sterility is not necessary nor is it attainable unless you have a spare autoclave lying around. What is absolutely necessary is ensuring you work to sanitary standards.
It is common in commercial kitchens to have colour coded cutting boards for different types of foods but this is not necessary. When preserving it is good practice to ensure your tools of trade eg knives, spoons, pots and jars, etc are well cleaned in hot soapy water. Some advocate sterilising using a hot oven particularly in the case of glass jars.
It is not necessary to go to the extreme of keeping seperate equipment for the purpose but it would be wise to ensure cutting boards, which are notorious for harbouring nasties, are hot washed and rinsed in a bleach & water solution before being allowed to air dry.
Tea towels are also a big source of contamination so opt for a single use paper towel when preserving wherever possible.
Remember though, the whole reason for preserving is not to place your wonderful creation into suspended animation forever more but rather to extend the bounty of your harvest season.
Spoilage
For the most part, food that has spoiled will be reasonably apparent very quickly. Signs to look for include mould growing anywhere in or on the product, discoloured or darkened, smelly, slimy or additional gases or bubbles inside the container.
Always, always err on the side of caution.
Remember IF IN DOUBT THROW IT OUT
Useful information provided in recipes will give you good estimates as to the stored and prepared foods premium condition.
Using these methods will have you enjoying your preserved foods at the peak of their flavour, just as you would if they were fresh at the time of consumption.
Good food and good health!
11 Traditional Preserving Methods
Underground cellars
Numerous vegetables and some fruits will keep well naturally over the winter season with a little temperature and humidity control. Those lucky enough to live in temperate climates will do best in this regard.
Natural storage is the easiest of all preservation methods. It provides extended access to a large selection of fresh vegetables.
A good underground cellar will maintain a temperature of around 12 degrees Celsius and humidity level of 90-95%. This prevents your vegetables from shrivelling uplike prunes.
There are 3 ways to achieve this.
- Install a dirt floor in your cellar. This helps to retain moisture. Gravel over packed earth is perfect and adding moisture is as simple as sprinkling a little water over the gravel.
- Hessian bags dampened but not dripping wet laid over the stored produce or pans of water on the floor will help increase the humidity
- Damp sawdust,sand or moss for packing vegetables especially carrots, beets and parsnip cuts down on surface evaporation.
A word of warning – a sudden drop in temperature will have your walls condensing with water. So try to main your temperature by ensuring adequate airflow and installing a thermometer and hydrometer gauge. You can find these in most good hardware stores.
Keep the stored produce up off the floor and away from the walls.
Caution – Apples give off Ethylene gas, which can often make other produce ripen, sprout and spoil prematurely. They will also impart an unpleasant flavour to cabbage and other vegetables, so be sure to store them separately. Check out this article about preserving apples.
Preserving in the ground
Some vegetables can remain in the ground all winter but measures must be taken to protect them from excess moisture, frost and rodents.
Here is a handy list of vegetables that store well in the ground.
Root vegetables can be buried in sand or sawdust which is neither too dry nor too damp. The sand can be simply piled on the ground, or kept in boxes or other containers. The containers or pile of sand may be placed in a cool cellar or sheltered location outdoors. Alternatively, an old freezer, cupboard or refrigerator with the door removed can be used to hold the sand and vegetables are simply buried in single layers and covered with the sand in layers. Cover with a piece of wood to keep out any rodents.
A word of caution in relation to sawdust. Many timbers are treated with toxic compounds – it is therefore essential to ensure that the sawdust you use for food storage comes from untreated wood.
Trenching or Heeling In is another method of preserving in the ground that has largely been forgotten. This method works particularly well with cabbages and lettuces. Dig trenches around 30 cm deep and wide. Place your produce side by side with the roots being all pointed toward the northern side in the Southern Hemisphere and southern direction in the Northern Hemisphere. Cover the roots with the soil removed to make the trench and the heads of the cabbage or lettuce with straw or ferns. This will help them to weather the cold and be available for use when needed. Simply uncover one end at a time and use as necessary.
In a Silo or Clamp – If you don’t have access to a cellar (most of us don’t), the next best thing is a clamp. The French call it a Silo which simply means an underground excavation to preserve vegetables. They can be partially or fully buried and even built completely above ground. Quite simply it is a hole dug in the ground, or in a mound of well- drained soil and sand. The design possiblities here are quite broad. But the process is basically the same. Build your Silo/Clamp, line it with dry leaves (walnut leaves work particularly well) Layer your vegetables with layers of dried leaves and cover with a heavy wooden cover to keep out rodents. The above ground variety may require the addition of a tarp to keep moisture out as well. This method of storage will keep your vegetables clean and fresh for around 3-4 months.
Preserving at Room Temperature
We have all seen Garlic braids in stores and online. But did you know there are several Vegetables that can be preserved in a similar way. Onions can be braided or bunched and hanged as can Chillis.
Squash can be stored on several layers of newspaper and placed well apart. Just remember to monitor it as room temperatures tend to vary wildly from place to place.
Tomatoes can preserved in this way as well, simply remove the entire plant with ripe and green tomatoes left on the vine. Hang it upside down and wrap each of the fruit in a layer of newspaper. This will allow your tomatoes to ripen slowly and give you time to consume them over the winter period.
Gruyere cheese can be stored in a stoneware pot and surrounded with 3 – 5 cm of sifted wood ash – Put the pot in the cellar – it will keep fresh for up to 3 months.
Olives can be brined and we are used to that but did you know you can take fresh-picked black olives and place them in a sterile airtight jar and store them in a cellar, attic or dark cupboard for up to six months. They will lose the black colour but it quickly returns on opening the jar. Once you are ready to eat simply season with herbs and olive oil. This method was traditionally used in France and Spain. Nowadays, it is used less and less in favour of brining.
Dehydrating or Drying
This is probably the most ancient food preservation methods known to mankind. It is still widely used today, in fact, it has had somewhat of a comeback. Its popularity now is largely due to a market of gadgets such as the electric dehydrator. I am certainly guilty of perpetuating this. I have one that gets used frequently. But solar driers are also extremely popular and consume only the sun as energy, a bonus in times of extremely costly electricity and being climate aware.
While our ancestors have discovered through experience that many foods are suitable to be dried or dehydrated, they also found many were not suited.
Foods well suited to drying are many fruits such as raisins, dates, apricots etc, as well as some vegetables such as tomato, mushrooms, and herbs. Some meats can also be dried – jerky being a particular favourite in our home. Fruit leathers and a myriad of other fun and interesting flavours can be made and kept for later use. Did you know that you can use pureed vegetable and herb mixes to make powders to add to your soups and stews?
Lactic Fermentation
Lactic Fermentation was the primary method for preserving vegetables before heat sterilisation and refridgeration were discovered. The process being so easy and effective as highlighted in the book below that it is now making a comeback. Lacto microbial organisms do all the work for us – how magical, by converting natural sugars found in the vegetables into lactic acid and thereby preventing the food from spoiling. We now know as a result of work done by many scientists that the acids produced by this process is also extremely good for gut health.
Many people who have discovered the benefits of lacto-fermented vegetables have made them a part of their daily diets and reap the health benefits as a result.
A word of caution here: Do not use tap or chlorinated water when working with lacto-ferments, rain water or bottled water being the preferred option, as chlorine inhibits the fermentation process. Also some Food Authorities recommend all ferments should also be canned in a water bath to prevent botulism, however, traditional lacto-fermentation raises acidic levels sufficiently to prevent this. Your care and attention to detail when preparing lacto-ferments is required and ultimately your best judgement when consuming.
The key to making good ferments is Salt. Vegetables are usually grated or chopped finely and seasoned with a bit of salt or a mild brine and left to soak in their own juices. A good rule of thumb is approximately 1 1/2 Percent salt by weight to that of the vegetables. This usually translates to around 2-3 tablespoons of salt per 600grams of vegetables.
By far the most popular vegetable to work with is the cabbage. Sauerkraut can be made in stoneware pots, glass jars, old wine barrels and countless other vessels. Kimchi is an Asian variation on this which usually includes other shredded vegetables such as carrots, zucchini and garlic.
Other ferments include but are not limited to green beans, beetroot, onions, Swiss Chard Stems, Radishes and even Lettuce. One of my favourites is Eggplant and Chrysanthemon Petals. Did you know Miso is a ferment? The world of fermentation is large and there is a lot being done in this space. The book listed below is one of many currently available but in my opinion it is the best currently available. Sandor also has a youtube channel. So look him up.
In Oil
This method of preservation is remarkable. Once preserved in oil many foods will keep almost indefinately, but this does come with some disadvantages. Firstly – eating foods preserved in oil means we are eating more fats. A rather less than desirable outcome when we are dealing with a world wide obesity epidemic. Secondly and probably more importantly, oils used in this method especially olive oil can be costly. So unless you have a particular need or want to preserve this way or you have access to your own olive grove, you may want to check if there is a better and more effective way to preserve your produce. That being said some things just taste better preserved this way and a little of what you like never hurt anyone.
This method is particularly well suited fresh mushrooms, sundried tomatos, artichoke hearts and eggplant come to mind and begin my salivation processes.
One that I use a lot is the Baguet or Parsley Condiment. It is one that was taught to me by my Spanish friends and has stayed the course. It can be used as a pesto or as starter seasoning for a range of dishes. We have all paid big money for those pestos made from usually basil but these can in fact be made at home with a variety of herbs and spices.
Cheese too can be preserved in oil. Goats Cheese and Gruyer being the most common.
In Vinegar
Preserving with vinegar is much the same as Lactic Ferments in that the goal is to create an environment too acidic to support microorganisms. The difference being that we are adding vinegar (acetic acid) to food to preserve it rather than it occuring as a natural byproduct of the fermentation process. Preserving in vinegar does have some disadvantages as compared with lactic ferments. By adding vinegar we are missing out on the benefits derived from fermentation such as specific enzymes and vitamins, easier digestion and medicinal properties. The food also takes on a very acidic quality and can only be eaten in small amounts.
Alternatively preserving in vinegar offers practical advantages such as being quick, easy and safe method. It is well known in the preparation of onions, gherkins and many other vegetables.
Beetroot preserves well with vinegar, as do Brussels sprouts and Gherkins but my preference for the later would be lactoferment as it brings an extra flavour dimension which is very pleasing to the palate. But pickled cherry tomatoes are simply devine as an accompaniment to fish or targine style dishes.
Nasturtium Seeds, often referred to as poor mans capers, are prepared simply by collecting the green seeds from your nasturtium plants at the end of summer, packed into small jars with some dill leaves and white wine vinegar. They taste amazing and cost you next to nothing. Poor Man indeed!
I must also share with you the Bicoloured Grapes mentioned in the history of preserving. Layering white and black grapes with tarragon, peppercorns, cloves and a little white sugar cover the grapes in a good white wine vinegar. Once stored for 6 weeks in the cool dark cupboard are the perfect sweet and sour accompaniment to poultry and game meats.
With Salt
While preserving with salt seems a relatively ancient process it is not as old as some of the methods we have discussed so far. It is clear that salt has been used throughout history to preserve meats, fish and butter. Some items today are still preserved in salt such as cod or anchovies. The main issue with preserving with salt is that it must be removed from most foods before they are consumed, otherwise the meal may not be as palatable as desired. REmoving the salt can be an onerous task requiring lengthy soaking and repeated rinsing that also washes out some nutrients.
However, preserving foods that we eat relatively small amounts of at a time, such as anchovies or by using small amounts of salt such as in a brine can make this method very useful.
Grape Leaves for later stuffing to make Dolmades are usually stored in a very salty brine after being scalded with the boiling brine roll your leaves in stacks of ten into cigars and pack them tightly into glass jars and cover with brine. My mouth is watering again.
Taking from the Spanish and Moors, we can also preserve citrus in salt with hot peppers, fenugreek and cardamon pods. The lemons, oranges or limes, squashed into the jar with the salt and spices are an essential element in Moroccan and Mediterranean cuisines. Here is one I did with Cumquats.
With Sugar
We have all preserved using sugar at some point. It is both a practical and economical method of preserving. Grandma’s strawberry jam comes to mind. We are unfortunately at a time in our history when diabetes (known historically as Sugar Sickness) is gripping the world. We are urged by our doctors and nutritionists to reduce the amount of sugar in our diets. Jams with no added sugar were not invented by those health food advocates but rather date back to a time when sugar was scarce and expensive or even non-existent. Three classic examples being apple jelly, pear jelly, and grape jelly. These have been made for centuries in certain regions of Northern Europe. Carob honey is a similar preserve found in the Middle East. These preserves are made from the juice only and not the whole fruit and therefore are really better classified as thick syrups or jellies not jams. Their preparation is based on a simple principle – prolonged cooking evaporates enough water to concentrate enough of the naturally occuring sugars for preservation to take place. Jams from whole fruit can also be prepared using the same principle.
A basic technique taught to me by my Grandmothers and clearly handed down to by mother to daughter for centuries is to pour your jam or jelly into hot jars, seal with lid and then turn upside down. I always thought of this technique of assisting in the seal of the lid but have since learned that while that is true the primary reason is to sterilise any air remaining in the jar and ensure preservation. It is also a good idea to store your jars upside down. Just be sure you have those lids on good and tight.
In Alcohol
Preserving in Alcohol appears to be the most effective way of storing certain herbs and medicinal plants but obviously it can also be used to create very grown up treats…
Dandelion or Elderflower Champange are two particular favourites. But Officer’s Jam or Bachelors Liqueur is a wonderful recipe that we shared in our article about apples. Here is the link again.
Sweet & Sour Preserves
The combination of sweet and sour flavours within the same dish comes largely from our Asian neighbours but also Indian and Indochinese. They are the background for chutneys and ketchup. These condiments were actually not intended to be preserved. Chutneys particularly were prepared at the same time as the rest of the meal in India. These days though, and we have the colonial era to thank for this, sweet and sour condiments are almost always preserved. This is why there are often large amounts of sugar and vinegar used in their preparation. Traditionally though the sweetness often came from the fruit used and the sour often came from lemon juice not vinegar.
Chutneys can be spicy or more sweet depending on your taste. They are often used to accompany cold meats but more and more they are used alongside cheeses and spicy Indian style dishes. Our chutney’s are designed to be preserved nowadays and as such must contain both sugar and vinegar.
Some more interesting uses include fruit such as cherries, pears and plums preserved in vinegar thus giving us the sweet and sour flavours we love.
Which Method is Best
Each method has its benefits and disadvantages however there clearly are some methods that suit particular fruits or vegetables better than others.
Click here to download our easy to use chart.
What ever method you choose my hope is that you have fun and pass on your skills to the next generation.
